Assuming that you’ve had a chance to use it are there any changes/modifications that you might consider? I like the idea of making it portable, i.e. removeable legs. Seat was scuplted with a chair shave and spoke shaves.
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But I think the strength of the lever and head and the joint that connects then would make it so you could add more pressure. Leading with my weak suggestion you could use grip tape on either or both sides of the table and clamp/hold. That would have the same effect as sand paper on the work piece so might not be desirable. I don’t have and never used a horse but I have seen many in use and done some previous research.
My version requires slightly more effort to make, but it is not all that difficult to produce. A few of the components are turned on a lathe, but these could be shaved or whittled as well. Instead of using an eye bolt as the work surface pivot, I substituted a wooden block tenoned through a mortise in the workbench. The head stands above the workbench and serves as the pivot for the hinged work surface.
So when I got a couple of freer afternoons I started shave horse 2.0. It was a short hop to see that this would also be a killer connection for a shave horse built as a fixture for the bench. Schwartz was uncertain about the use of the notch. He used it to secure a planing stop in one of his benches and passed the arms of a shave horse though the notches on another, though I couldn’t see how this was an advantage.
Since it’s only 4 1/4″ wide, I can’t really stick big stock in the horse. I also just shaped the seat using a chair shave and spoke shave then sanded it smooth with a random orbital sander. Brian wrapped his with leather which gives https://www.woodlands.co.uk/blog/woodland-activities/a-shave-horse-my-kingdom-for-a-shave-horse/ his horse a real nice look. I did however glue a piece of leather onto one side of the hold down bar so that the horse would grip the stock better. Building the horse wasn’t complicated at all and it only took me a weekend to make.
Shave Horse “the Clydesdale”
it might leave some residue on the work piece, but I really don’t know. Increasing the mechanical advantage of the shavehorse ended up being the major contributor to holding power. While all answers were helpful, this ended up being the most helpful. You should either use a taller platform or, better yet, you should move the grip further down on the swinging arm .
Shaving green wood with the drawknife or spokeshave along the grain is far quicker and easier work than turning across it. Skilled operators can produce very fine results with a drawknife and shavehorse, requiring minimal lathe finishing. love the plans, have some 1 inch and 2 inch cedar rough cut with live edge that I’m gonna use to build this. Of course I’m going to sand where needed, but I like the rough look of the old school ones I’ve seen and really like this design.
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Yellow pine, cheaper than oak, will do the job. Be sure to use straight-grained, shavable wood for the posts. Salvaged pallet wood can be used for the yoke, treadle sides and foot bar. Sometimes you can even find good pallet wood for posts. Use what you can get, but always choose the hardest available wood. Treadle frame sides can be made from surveyor’s stakes.
- There are lots of ways to put legs on a bench, I came up with this design because I had short pieces of 4×4 laying around the shop and wanted to find a way to use them.
- and I wanted to stick to, if not a traditional look, at least all wood construction.
- I like the idea of making it portable, i.e. removeable legs.
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- The shaving horse clamps to the top of the bench.
- I used lag bolts to affix them to pieces of 4×4 cut at an angle.
A foot-actuated clamp holds the work piece securely against pulling forces, especially as when shaped with a drawknife or spokeshave. This should sort of happen naturally as you work the wood so it may indicate you’re sitting a little further back on the bench than is ideal, so that your legs are initially more extended than they should be. It may just be the perspective or the setup of the photo, but it appears to me that your shave horse is not adjusted quite right. When you push on the footrest, the swinging arm should not have to travel very far past vertical, and the grip should not be able to swing closer to you than the platform. At this point I was out of time to work on stuff, so I set it aside. I could add another piece of leather to the platform, which would probably help with grip.
The dimensions on the diagram are overall dimensions. The eye on the treadle eyebolt should be on the shaver’s “handy” side https://www.woodlands.co.uk (shown in the diagram for a right-handed person). All-thread can be used, but an eyebolt is more easily tightened .